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There’s nothing like a trip to southern Spain in November to remind you that citrus season has arrived in Europe. I recently left dark, damp and dreary Britain behind for a few days in Malaga, and the sight of orange trees lining the streets, their branches heavy with orange baubles, really did fill me with joy. I love hearty brown food as much as the next hungry person, but as winter progresses I start to crave freshness and brightness, too. Adding the zing of orange or lemon to comfort food does the job brilliantly. That’s why I’m particularly fond of this week’s recipe.
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