Pollo alla Cacciatora

From Cucina Povera by @GiuliaScarpaleggia (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Tomasso Galli.

Pollo alla cacciatora is a dish with a distinctly rustic appeal. It is one of those recipes that you find throughout Italy. All you need is a good farm-raised chicken, aromatics and fresh herbs from the garden, a handful of juicy tomatoes, and a glug of wine, white or red. Chicken cacciatore can vary according to the season and tradition: some cooks add luscious black olives, other foraged mushrooms or vegetables like carrots, celery, and peppers. Serve it with crusty fresh bread to mop up the sauce, or spoon it over soft polenta.

Use any leftover tomato sauce from the cacciatore to make a second meal, serving it over tagliatelle.

Serves 4 as a main course

• 1 chicken (2½ to 3 pounds/1.1 to 1.4 kg) - or use chicken thighs with skin on

• Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• ⅓ cup/80 ml extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 red onion, diced

• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

• 3 fresh sage leaves

• 1 fresh rosemary sprig

• A glass of dry white wine

• One 14-ounce/397 g can peeled whole tomatoes, crushed by hand, juices reserved

• ½ cup/120 ml water

• ⅓ cup/60 g pitted brined black olives

Cut the chicken into pieces: 2 thighs, 2 legs, 2 wings, and 2 breasts; cut the breasts crosswise into 2 pieces each. Then cut the backbone into 4 pieces. Season the chicken pieces all over with salt and pepper and set aside.

In a 12-inch/30 cm heavy-bottomed frying pan with a lid, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, sage, rosemary, and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes.

Add the chicken pieces skin side down to the pan, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring and turning frequently, until browned all over, about 10 minutes. Don’t worry if the skin tears or falls off the meat; after the meat is braised, it won’t matter. If the onion starts to brown too much as you cook the chicken, reduce the heat slightly.

Pour in the wine, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the wine has almost completely evaporated, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, with their juices, and the water, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer gently for about 30 minutes, stirring from time to time, until almost all the liquid has evaporated.

Uncover the pan, stir in the black olives, and cook, uncovered, for a few more minutes, until the sauce cloaks the chicken. Taste the sauce and season with additional salt and/or pepper if necessary.

Transfer to a platter and serve.